|
PACIFIC
TIME
HAS
BEEN
RESURRECTED.
If
you
spotted
a
chef
hauling
a
big
clock
around
Miami,
it
was
probably
chef/
owner
Jonathan
Eismann
taking
his
famed
relic
to
its
new
home
in
the
Design
District,
a
fertile
area
for
trendy
eateries.The
clock
seems
to
be
the
only
memento
left
over
from
the
14
years
Pacific
Time
ruled
the
Lincoln
Road
concourse
in
Miami
Beach.
We
arrive
early
and
the
place
is
pretty
much
empty;
more
people
are
needed
to
breathe
some
life
into
this
room.
Except
for
a
mesmerizing
bar
with
beautiful
backlight,
and
a
high-back
booth
against
the
back
wall,
the
bistro-
like
dining
room
has
little
noticeable
design
features.
But
Miami
diners
always
like
to
show
up
a
little
later,
and
around
8:30,Pacific
Time
is
booming
as
if
it
never
closed
or
moved.
Clearly,
the
crowd
followed
their
beloved
chef
to
his
new
habitat.
He
could’ve
reopened
in
the
middle
of
the
Everglades;
it
wouldn’t
have
mattered.
The
new
menu,
as
explained
by
our
very
knowledgeable
server,
is
characterized
as
“New
American/Pan
Asian
with
a
French
twist.”
Unlike
the
white
tablecloth
service
of
the
former
location,
prices
are
much
lower,
and
small,
eclectic
dishes
make
up
the
bulk
of
the
seafood-dominated
menu.
Patrons
could
even
go
without
an
entrée
and
just
sample
different
appetizers.We
start
with
the
Crab
Wontons
($8)
with
Pacific
Time
Ketchup,which
seems
to
be
a
mix
between
ketchup
and
soy
sauce.Not
the
best
choice.
The
filling
doesn’t
resemble
anything
that
might
have
lived
in
the
ocean
and
even
if
it
is
chicken
(it
might
as
well
be),
it’s
still
too
dry
and
bland.
In
an
attempt
to
forget
our
false
start,we
quickly
move
on
to
Kona
Kampachi
($
17),
a
sushi-
grade
Hawaiian
yellowtail,
here
cut
‘
carpaccio
style,’
topped
with
grapefruit,
ponzu
sauce
(Japanese
citrus
sauce)
and
jalapeño
slices.The
fish
has
a
very
silky
texture
and
melts
like
butter
in
our
mouths:
a
wonderful
dish.We’re
equally
impressed
with
the
Seared
Foie
Gras
($19)
that
comes
with
the
thinnest
slices
of
pineapple,
apple
tartin
and
pomegranate
syrup.
With
the
help
of
a
spectacular
Blue
Thyme
Martini
(with
blueberry,
lemon
and
thyme)
and
a
very
yummy
side
dish
with
white
beans,
garlic,
thyme
and
goat
cheese,we’re
not
too
saddened
about
the
broth
accompanying
our
Steamed
Local
Mangrove
Snapper
($
22).We
suspect
the
liquid
hasn’t
been
cooking
long
enough
for
the
alcohol
of
the
Sake
to
dissolve.The
snapper
is
hard
to
eat
with
such
a
pungent
broth,
perfectly
cooked
but
.With
better
execution,
this
is
probably
a
great
seafood
dish.
But
any
disappointments
can
be
forgiven
with
the
Drunken
Grape
Parfait
($6)
with
grapes
soaked
in
port,
layered
with
peach
sorbet
and
real
whipped
cream.Nothing
tickles
my
feathers
more
than
homemade
whipped
cream,
a
rare
commodity
in
today’s
restaurants.
It
makes
me
want
to
go
into
the
kitchen
and
hug
the
chef.
This
is
a
man
who
gets
it.
Few
missteps
aside,
Pacific
Time
is
back
on
its
feet
.
And
we’ll
come
again.
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